Free Project – Mesh Bag

This article was originally posted on the 06/03/2015

The Pet Mesh Bag is a great all rounder.  I use mine when i need something larger than the basic handbag – perfect for the beach, or for your weekly shop.

It sounds ridiculous, but you can embroider dense designs, on a wide open mesh, with great results.

  

Requirements:-

.5m Pet Mesh (must be Pet Mesh, and not aluminium fly screen)

.5m contrast fabric (or two fat quarters)

2.7m polyester or cotton webbing to use to make the handles.  If you don’t want to make handles, purchase the polyester webbing in an accent colour for your bag.

Embroidery threads

Tear away stabiliser

Wash away stabiliser (I use WetAway Sticky)

Embroidery machine and hoops

Sewing machine

Sewing thread to match accent fabric, and screening fabric.

Denim Delight Machine Embroidery Designs by Julie Hall Designs

Mesh Bag Pattern by Julie Hall Designs

Notes:

All seam allowances are 15mm

Instructions

  1. Enlarge the attached pattern to full size (currently at 50%), and print out.  The finished size of the pattern should be 42×23.8cm across the top
  2. Lay the pattern piece on top of the Pet Mesh, and cut out the Two Pattern Pieces
  3. Take a chalk marking pen, and using the markings on the pattern, mark out where your design will be placed, as well as your contrast fabric stitching line, and the top binding line. 
  4. Hoop your wash away stabiliser, with the sticky side showing up.  Take your mesh, with the markings showing, and centre the markings in the hoop.  Gently adhere the mesh to the stabiliser. (You can also use a non sticky wash away, and baste the mesh into the hoop).
  5. Load your selected designs onto your embroidery machine, and stitch out your embroidery.  I find the best way to do this is to slow the machine down as slow as it can go.
  6. Once the embroidery is completed, remove the embroidery from the hoop, and cut away any excess stabiliser. You can rinse any excess stabiliser free at this stage. 
  7. Using the pattern piece provided, and your contrast fabric, cut out the contrast bottom fabric.
  8. Lay the contrast fabric along the line previously marked, and pin.  Stitch.  Repeat for the back of the bag. 

  9. Once the fabric has been stitched down, fold the fabric over, finger press the seam down, and top stitch. 
  10. Take your handles, and cut in half.  Using an open flame, singe the cut edges of the handles to stop fraying.
  11. From the remainder of the contrast fabric, cut enough strips to cover your handles, 2 ¾  times the width of the handle.  For instance, my handle is 1¼”, so I am cutting the contrast fabric for my handles 3½” wide.
  12. Join your contrast strips together to form two long strips.
  13. Fold the contrast fabric around the bindings, and secure with pins


  14. Stitch down each side of the handles to secure.
  15. Lay the bag back and front down, and mark in 3.5” from each side.  Lay the handles down along the INSIDE of this marking, and pin to secure.

  16. Stitch the handles onto the bag, ONLY ½ THE WAY UP THE BAG.  I like to use the  same stitching line that I used to cover the handles.

  17. Once the handles have been stitched onto the bag, lay the bag down, with right sides together, and stitch along the sides and bottom of the bag.

  18. Pull the cut away squares together, to form the bag base.  Stitch.

  19. Cut the final piece of your contrast fabric, 4” wide, to go around the top of your bag.  Beginning on the inside of the bag, stitch the top binding down, leaving a 1.5” seam allowance.

  20. Pull the fabric up and around the bag, and fold under the seam allowance.  Stitch along the edge of the binding to finish.

I have also used the same bag pattern with the doodleflower designs, very girly and pretty!

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